The Finishing Touch
Not every pyrography artist applies a finish to their artwork, and there are valid reasons for that choice. Once a finish—or even colour—has been applied, the surface can no longer be woodburned. Attempting to burn over a finish may release toxic fumes and can also damage your wire tip.
With an unfinished artwork, an artist or art restorer can touch it up with a pyrography tool. Wood can even be sanded and woodburned again. Not all types of wood, however, are safe to woodburn on. Read my blog on choosing your wood canvas to discover what types of wood are best for woodburning.
Applying a finish to a pyrography artwork protects it from moisture, fading, and warping. Changes in humidity can cause wood to warp, while ultraviolet rays gradually fade pyrography marks—especially when the artwork is displayed in direct sunlight. For this reason, pyrography art is best displayed indoors and away from direct sunlight.
When I first began woodburning, I didn’t apply a finish to my artwork. My focus was on developing my woodburning skills, and I knew very little about wood finishes. As I began creating pieces to sell, preserving my artwork became just as important as creating it. After spending countless hours creating a piece, I wanted to ensure it would be enjoyed for years to come.
I researched the finishes used by other pyrography artists and quickly discovered that the intended use of a piece should guide your choice. For example, items that come into contact with food—such as wooden spoons, charcuterie boards, or cutting boards—require a food-safe finish.
Oil wood finishes
A water-resistant finish is needed to protect the wood from moisture and spills for products such as coasters. Some of the most commonly used oil finishes include walnut oil, tung oil, Danish oil and linseed oil.
Depending on the mood I want to create, I choose either 100% pure tung oil or 100% pure walnut oil. Both are non-toxic, water-resistant, and leave a matte finish. Walnut oil gives wood a slightly warmer hue, making it my choice when I want an antique glow for a nautical theme. Tung oil produces a more neutral hue.
The hue of any oil once cured can vary depending on the lightness or darkness of the wood. In general, an oil finish will slightly darken the wood while enhancing the wood grain.
Derived from walnuts, walnut oil has a delicate, sweet fragrance that lingers on the wood. Because it is extracted from walnuts, people with nut allergies should avoid products finished with walnut oil.
Tung oil is made from the seeds of the tung tree, cultivated in China and South America. It has been used in China for centuries to preserve wooden boats.
Danish oil originated as a finish for Scandinavian furniture. The product is typically a blend of different oils, such as linseed or tung oil, combined with synthetic resins. Because the formulation varies from one manufacturer to another, I recommend reading the ingredient list before purchasing Danish oil.
I experimented with the Tried & True Danish oil made from pure polymerized linseed oil, a non-toxic finish. It tinted the birch coaster with a light mustard hue. The scent of this Danish oil on application is pronounced, requiring ventilation.
When choosing a finish, I consider more than just its colour. Drying time, ease of application, availability, cost, toxicity, and the intended use of the piece all influence my decision.
Applying oil finish
Using a lint-free cloth, I apply a thin coat to the front and back of my canvas, allowing the wood to absorb the finish. After 30 to 45 minutes, I wipe away any excess oil and allow it to cure for at least 48 hours before applying the next coat. I typically apply two to three coats to achieve a durable, water-resistant finish.
Cold wax medium
For some of my artwork, particularly pieces enhanced with watercolour, I prefer using a cold wax medium. It provides an archival, non-yellowing, water-resistant matte finish while preserving the soft appearance of watercolours that I love.
Applying cold wax medium
I first warm the tin of cold wax medium in the sink with hot tap water for 30 to 45 minutes to soften the wax. Warming the wax makes it much easier to apply a thin, even coat.
Using a lint-free cloth, I apply a small amount to the wood canvas, spreading it in thin, circular motions. I apply two coats of the cold wax medium, allowing the finish to cure 48 hours after each application.
I use Gamblin Cold Wax Medium—a mixture of natural beeswax, Gamsol, and alkyd resin.
Read my blog on using resin for yet another finishing option.
Enjoy your woodburning art for years to come!
